{"id":118927,"date":"2024-02-02T15:30:52","date_gmt":"2024-02-02T20:30:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/riverheadnewsreview.timesreview.com\/?p=118927"},"modified":"2024-02-02T15:30:54","modified_gmt":"2024-02-02T20:30:54","slug":"closing-of-satur-farms-packaging-plant-another-sign-of-challenges-facing-north-fork-farmers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/riverheadnewsreview.timesreview.com\/2024\/02\/118927\/closing-of-satur-farms-packaging-plant-another-sign-of-challenges-facing-north-fork-farmers\/","title":{"rendered":"Closing of Satur Farms’ packaging plant another sign of challenges facing North Fork farmers"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

More than 25 years ago, Paulette Satur and her husband, Eberhard Muller, an acclaimed chef at iconic Manhattan restaurants like Le Bernardin and Lutece, bought an 18-acre farm in Cutchogue where potatoes had once been grown.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Their idea was to cultivate  a variety of vegetables and sell them directly to restaurants. In doing so, they were early pioneers in what later became known as the farm-to-table movement. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Satur Farms, as they called their business, filled a particular niche and soon the couple was leasing other farmland on the North Fork and selling leafy greens<\/a> to places like Whole Foods, King Kullen and FreshDirect. Their brand become very well known, anchored as it was to the North Fork\u2019s rich soil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, nearly three decades after they planted their first crops on their Cutchogue farm, the future of their business is uncertain. The large building they leased in Calverton as a washing, processing, packaging and distribution facility is being shuttered because the rent has skyrocketed, Ms. Satur said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe can\u2019t afford that increase,\u201d she said. \u201cIt\u2019s too steep for our operation.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On top of that, their future use of 140 acres in Cutchogue that are crucial to their successful leafy green business is up in the air. The couple\u2019s lease on the land ends in April, and the land\u2019s owner, the Soloviev Group<\/a>, has not told them if it will be extended. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe don\u2019t comment on the status of leases between the Soloviev Group and external businesses\u201d,\u201d Hayden Soloviev, a spokesperson for the family, said, He declined to address a question about whether the group will seek town approvals for housing development of that parcel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In an interview last week at the Calverton facility, both Ms. Satur and Mr. Muller said the 140 acres in Cutchogue is essential to their operation. \u201cWe need a certain critical mass of land in order to maintain the level of business we have,\u201d Mr. Muller said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the day of the interview, crews were removing equipment from the building, which the couple said they would vacate on the last day in January. As for why they are leaving the facility, Ms. Satur said in a separate interview, \u201cThere are many reasons, but the main one is that the rent has almost tripled. We\u2019ve contracted with another company, which will pack our greens.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

She said she is working with the New York State Department of Labor to find jobs for their 40 employees. \u201cI\u2019ve helped eight of them get new jobs so far with another distributor. There\u2019s a worker shortage so the workers will be welcome elsewhere.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ms. Satur added that she and her husband are selling the washing and packing equipment at the processing facility. She declined to identify where the farm’s new packing facility is located.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the interview, both Ms. Satur and Mr. Muller said they did not know if they would be allowed to continue to farm the 140 acres in Cutchogue owned by the Soloviev Group. They declined to speculate on the future of Satur Farms<\/a> if that land was unavailable to farm. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe will cross the bridge when we come to it,\u201d Mr. Muller said. \u201cIf we can\u2019t continue there, we will adjust \u2014 we will pivot.\u201d Ms. Satur  agreed with her husband, saying, \u201cWe will have to readjust.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But both said that 140 acres, the largest part of the approximately 200 acres they have farm, is critical. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Word that Satur is leaving the Calverton facility due to rising rent, and the uncertainty of their use of the 140 acres, comes just two weeks after the Peconic Land Trust was hailed for its purchase of 151 acres in the Oregon Road farm belt in Cutchogue and its sale of two parcels totaling 38 acres<\/a> to two local growers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Both Ms. Satur and Mr. Muller praised that sale, but said the parcels are too small and far too expensive, totaling in the millions of dollars. \u201cFor something like what we do to be successful,\u201d she said, \u201cwe need larger parcels. Those would be too small.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rob Carpenter, the executive director of the Long Island Farm Bureau, praised Satur Farms as being one of the region\u2019s best argricultural  operations. But he said the headwinds for that business , and many others, may bee too stiff to successfully navigate. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWhether it\u2019s the high cost of production, rising rents, land prices, the regulations about processing and land use \u2014 it\u2019s more and more difficult for agriculture here to continue to evolve,\u201d he said. \u201cBut they built a really great business.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mr. Carpenter said the issue of land availability is not unique to Satur Farms. \u201cThere are fewer and fewer large parcels available to rent, and the prices are far too high to purchase for a farm business,\u201d he said. \u201cMaybe they (Satur Farms) could find 15 acres here, 20 acres there, but they need large, contiguous pieces and that\u2019s harder and harder to find with all the development pressures.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

He cited other reasons \u2014 including rising state-mandated minimum wage increases and changes in overtime rules for farm workers \u2014 as contributing to the challenges impacting the North Fork\u2019s historic farms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In announcing the Peconic Land Trust\u2019s purchase of the Cutchogue farmland<\/a>, John Halsey, the Trust\u2019s director, noted that soaring land prices \u2014 particularly on the South Fork \u2014 have made it extraordinarily difficult for existing farmers to acquire more land. North Fork prices are close behind. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThere are people buying up land and the availability of land is diminishing,\u201d he said. \u201cLeasing land means you are not in control of your destiny; buying land and owning it takes care of that.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mr. Muller came to farming when he and his wife started Satur Farms in 1997 after he\u2019d had an extraordinary career as a chef. He began work in Manhattan at Windows of the World. In 1985 he helped open Le Bernardin, which went on to receive four stars from The New York Times. In 1994, he was named executive chef at Lutece.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Three years after that, he and Ms. Satur donned work boots and began planting in Cutchogue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

additional reporting by
Deborah Wetzel<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

More than 25 years ago, Paulette Satur and her husband, Eberhard Muller, an acclaimed chef at iconic Manhattan restaurants like Le Bernardin and Lutece, bought an 18-acre farm in Cutchogue where potatoes had once been grown. Their idea was to cultivate  a variety of vegetables and sell them directly to restaurants. 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