{"id":119427,"date":"2024-03-18T06:00:00","date_gmt":"2024-03-18T10:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/riverheadnewsreview.timesreview.com\/?p=119427"},"modified":"2024-03-25T08:58:47","modified_gmt":"2024-03-25T12:58:47","slug":"is-east-end-craft-brewing-tapped-out","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/riverheadnewsreview.timesreview.com\/2024\/03\/119427\/is-east-end-craft-brewing-tapped-out\/","title":{"rendered":"Is East End craft brewing tapped out?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

With more than 50 craft breweries spread across Nassau and Suffolk counties, Long Island\u2019s craft beer industry is undeniably hopping.\u00a0These locales and\u00a0 their attached tasting rooms offer an array of unique brews \u2014 from stouts to pale ales, seasonals and yes, IPAs \u2014\u00a0 to those seeking a fun night out as or a six-pack of something they can\u2019t get\u00a0 at the supermarket.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the past two decades, numerous craft breweries have opened on the East End. While a few have since closed or shifted gears, there are even more home brewers who hope to soon join the party.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But the regional industry is a different world today compared to 15 years ago, when two powerhouses that are still going strong \u2014 Long Ireland Beer Company in Riverhead and Greenport Harbor Brewing Co. \u2014 arrived on the scene. They were the only acts in town on the North Fork. Their nearest competitors were Patchogue\u2019s Blue Point Brewing Co. and Southampton Publick House, which stopped selling its own brews at the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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(Nicholas Grasso photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Since those early days, what feels like countless breweries have opened in the region, especially in Riverhead, a gateway to both forks. Brewers who have always been distributors and marketers are now hospitality and entertainment specialists who depend not only on their customers, but their competitors to build and maintain a vibrant local craft brewing scene. With so many newcomers and changes to the very nature of the game, some are asking whether the industry on the East End and around the nation can continue to expand\u00a0 or if the bubble is about ready\u00a0 to burst.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe discussion on the national level, pre-COVID-19, went from \u2018There\u2019s plenty of runway ahead of us\u2019 to \u2018It\u2019s a maturing marketplace, and yes, there\u2019s more competition, but don\u2019t worry, you can still make a living ,\u2019\u2009\u201d said Rich Vandenburgh, a founder and co-owner of Greenport Harbor Brewing Co. and current president of the New York State Brewers Association, a 21-year-old promotional and legislative advocate for the state\u2019s breweries and related businesses. \u201cNow, it\u2019s, \u2018Welcome to the world of being just another business out there fighting to survive.\u2019\u2009\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While it seems only logical to question whether such a saturated industry that has grown from a novelty to a driving force in the local economy\u00a0can sustain itself, brewers here on the East End recognize the changing tides, but are not sounding any alarms just yet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe\u2019ve kind of always had an attitude that a rising tide floats all boats, and that we\u2019re happy to have these neighbors here,\u201d said Dan Burke, who co-founded and co-owns Long Ireland with Greg Martin. \u201cI have my regular customers and I have people visiting the North Fork. They\u2019re not going to just stop and have beer here \u2026 They\u2019re gonna bounce around a little bit.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Regardless of change, exceptional beer remains a brewery\u2019s key to survival. Burke and Martin began learning the tricks of the trade and brewing their own beers at a friend\u2019s brewery in Connecticut and ferried kegs back to Long Island for self distribution. Over the years, Burke\u00a0 said he and Martin have crafted upwards of 60 brews, including their flagship Celtic Ale and specials such as\u00a0their Pumpkin Ale and Hooligan Irish Stout. Currently, Long Ireland is for sale, but not because times are tough. After nearly two decades in the industry, Martin hopes to exit the business, but Burke said he will remain involved in its next chapter, which could possibly see new owners dust off some old recipes Long Ireland\u2019s fans have been craving.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI am super enthusiastic about the future Long Ireland Beer Company, and for a blend of nostalgia and innovation,\u201d Burke said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

SPREADING THE CHEERS<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vandenburgh and his partner John Liegey opened Greenport Harbor in 2009, and their first few years in business marked a period of substantial growth. In those days, it was distribution that brought in the big bucks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u201cWe were distributing throughout Long Island, we were distributing into New York City,\u201d Vandenburgh said. \u201cWe agreed to some partnerships where we distributed our beer up to Albany, where there were places where they thought it was a great local New York beer [even though we were] hours away. The number of breweries was growing, not only in the state, but nationally, but we were still considered local within a 600-mile circle, and we enjoyed that; it was great.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distribution was especially important during Long Ireland and Greenport Harbor\u2019s early days. For many years, tasting rooms in New York were quite literally for tasting; they could only serve samples of their brews to customers, who could then purchase cans to drink at home. This changed when then-governor Andrew Cuomo signed the 2014 Craft Ac<\/a>t<\/a>, which permitted micro and farm breweries to sell their beers to patrons by the pint. With this law in place, tasting rooms\u2019 profit margins skyrocketed and a welcome wagon was rolled out for more breweries and tap rooms. According to the Brewers Association, a national industry trade group, New York State was home to 75 craft breweries in 2011. That number has since multiplied nearly sevenfold, and by 2022 New York State was home to 504 breweries. .<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Experienced brewers and newcomers alike recognize they must keep experimenting with new brews while maintaining brewer-tested, drinker-approved offerings on tap.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI think it is important to make sure that you have a core lineup that is true and consistent and always available,\u201d Vandenburgh said. \u201cAnd then you can kind of gamble on the edges, do interesting things that are unique \u2014 limiteds, one-offs\u2014 but aren\u2019t necessarily going to be the mainstays for you. If you can nail down what that combination is, that\u2019s probably the best recipe for success.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Like their recipe books, Burke and Vandenburgh have faced growing\u00a0 competition on\u00a0 the East End since 2009. Twin Fork Brewing Co., ubergeek (formerly Mustache Brewing Co.), North Fork Brewing Co., Tradewinds Brewing and the recently\u00a0shuttered Peconic County Brewing<\/a>, all opened since the 2014 Craft Act was passed \u2014 and that\u2019s just in Riverhead.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As to why brewers flocked there, Burke pointed to former town supervisor Sean Walter and other elected officials, who he described as \u201cpro-business,\u201d as well as an underground secret to success.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cBuilding a brewery, you want to be in a sewer district,\u201d Burke explained. \u201cFor every gallon of beer you produce, you\u2019re producing about eight gallons of sanitized wash water, [including from] cleaning all the equipment \u2026 We kind of developed a wastewater management system that all the breweries that have come in after us use. It\u2019s a dilution tank that then bleeds off into the sewer district at a gallon-per-minute, so we\u2019re never overwhelming them.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By the time brothers Pete and Dan Chekijian opened their Twin Fork Brewing Co. tasting room in 2020, after six-years distributing brews, the nature of a tap room had radically changed. Music defines Twin Fork\u2019s brand, with brews bearing names like the Legato Stout and their flagship Chromatic Ale. The motif is quite appropriate within the East End\u2019s craft brewing scene, in which live music is a key driver of success. For the past several years, industry veterans and newcomers alike have realized they are now in the hospitality industry \u2014 whether they set out to be or not. Among countless promotional events, they draw customers and boost tap room revenue through live entertainment, trivia nights, karaoke and hosting fundraisers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vandenburgh said public and private events at Greenport Harbor\u2019s Peconic location, such as their popular annual chili cookoff, now generate\u00a0 \u201cat least 50%\u201d of revenue. For the Chekijians, private events like the bridal showers and rehearsal dinners for which they rents out their space have been a key revenue stream since the\u00a0 tasting room\u2019s inception. Over at Long Ireland, Burke hosts what he described as \u201cdrinking ideas,\u201d including an annual \u201cPintwood Derby,\u201d a more raucous version of a classic Boy Scout Pinewood Derby.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Each brewery has its share of followers who flock to events or pop in on slower weeknights, but their ranks pale in comparison to the legions who are broadly devoted to craft beer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Like punk rock, craft brewing has something of a\u00a0DIY vibe, and the East End scene is particularly vibrant and successful because it has several venues, all of which local fans and travelers from farther west can visit in a single day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThey\u2019re not necessarily loyal to a brand, like if your dad was a Chevy guy, you\u2019re a Chevy guy and your kids are going to be Chevy guys,\u201d Burke explained of craft beer devotees. \u201cThey\u2019re loyal to the independent nature of the business. We all do different things, but we share customers.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But zooming out, its clear the sheer volume of breweries has diminished  one sector of many  breweries\u2019 portfolios: distribution.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe were still having great [wholesale] success on Long Island and in New York City, but year after year, there were more breweries entering the marketplace,\u201d Vandenburgh  explained of his experience in the years after he moved the brewery\u2019s base of operations to Peconic in 2014. \u201cThat 600-mile circle of what was considered local started to get smaller and smaller \u2026 We were competing with the newer little guys that were starting to pop up in the Albany area and upstate. They were more local than we were. They had a following and may have had a small tasting room, so it was a lot easier for those guys to win the battle for the tap handle in those restaurants and bars than it was for us.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But other local brewers, including Twin Fork, are still finding broader success.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe\u2019re actually spreading much farther,\u201d Pete Chekijian said. \u201cMy brother is negotiating some distribution contracts in the northern Hudson Valley, up into the Great Lakes area, up in Syracuse.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While achieving widespread distribution and brand recognition is much harder these days, some home brewers are still frothing\u00a0with anticipation at the chance to enter the East End scene. Among them is Lindsay Reichart. She and her partner, Gunnar Burke, started brewing more than a decade ago and have\u00a0 been canning Springs Brewery offerings, including the Lazy Lightning IPA and the Radio Radio pilsner, for two years. After her father retires later this year, she hopes to take over his auto body shop and convert it into a tasting room of her own. She will join Kidd Squid Brewing Company and Westhampton Beach Brewing Co., which opened on the South Fork in recent years. From her perspective, those\u00a0neighboring establishments \u201cdon\u2019t feel like competition.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt\u2019s interesting because when we started thinking about this, there weren\u2019t really many breweries on the South Fork,\u201d she said. \u201cThe beer culture in Riverhead was still small, and there was Greenport [Harbor] and Montauk [Brewing Company]. Things have evolved \u2026 I think having all these different breweries enriches the culture and the respect for these fermentation practices \u2026 In Germany, every town has a different brewery that\u2019s doing a different thing and providing a different perspective. I think on the East End, where everything has turned into this fancy Hamptons thing, beer can be this social condenser that is very accessible and really brings people together.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

With more than 50 craft breweries spread across Nassau and Suffolk counties, Long Island\u2019s craft beer industry is undeniably hopping.\u00a0These locales and\u00a0 their attached tasting rooms offer an array of unique brews \u2014 from stouts to pale ales, seasonals and yes, IPAs \u2014\u00a0 to those seeking a fun night out as or a six-pack of…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2002,"featured_media":119428,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[27,1743,35],"tags":[16323,4242,12467,5392,16322,16330,16316,16320,16332,16329,4587,16319,12976,16317,16328,16321,16331,16318,16327,16324,16325,16326],"coauthors":[],"class_list":["post-119427","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-business","category-featured-story","category-news","tag-2014-craft-act","tag-craft-beer","tag-dan-burke","tag-greenport-harbor-brewing-co","tag-greg-martin","tag-gunnar-burke","tag-ipas","tag-john-liegey","tag-kidd-squid-brewing-company","tag-lindsay-reichart","tag-long-ireland-beer-company","tag-new-york-state-brewers-association-2","tag-north-fork-brewing-co","tag-pale-ales","tag-pete-and-dan-chekijian","tag-rich-vandenburgh","tag-springs-brewery","tag-stout","tag-tradewinds-brewing","tag-twin-fork-brewing-co","tag-ubergeek","tag-ubergeek-formerly-mustache-brewing-co"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nIs East End craft brewing tapped out? 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